We finally got checked out from Customs on Monday in Belize, and headed out straight for Livingston, Guatemala that morning. Winds were light, so we had to motorsail for at least half of the 9 hour trip. We arrived just outside of Livingston after dusk, so I decided to anchor just outside of the river’s entrance close to the beach. The anchorage was wide open and exposed to the North, but since winds were blowing from the Southeast, it was very comfortable.
The next morning, we headed into the Rio Dulce’s mouth and Livingston about an hour before high tide. The Rio Dulce is mostly deep along the river all the way to its end at Lago Izabal. However, the entrance from the Bay of Honduras is a whole other story. There is a huge shallow bar of silt and sand that is pumped out of the river down at the mouth of the river where it meets the Bay of Honduras. The depths get to just BARELY six feet in most places along the entry. Our boat’s draft is 5′ 11″. Do the math, it’s a tight fit. Well, trust me when I say it was.
For much of the mile or so trip over the bar, we were able to keep depths of just over six feet. Then, all of a sudden, it will drop to about five and a half feet, and stay that way for several hundred feet. This is when you feel the keel of the boat digging into the sandy bottom. The trip was bumpy and grindy, and not the good kind either. We maintained the best course we can and within 10 minutes we made it through the bar and into Livingston harbor, unscathed.
Checking in with customs and immigration at Guatemala was a breeze compared to Mexico and even Belize. Raf and I changed some money into Quetzales, and had some breakfast at a local diner. While there, we met Miet and Miriam who were both traveling through Guatemala too. Miriam is a physical therapist from Berlin, Germany. Miet, interestingly enough, is not only from Belgium, (as Raf is), but she was also from his HOMETOWN! Not only that, she happens to know his ex-girlfriend Teresa who will be flying in to Guatemala on the 28th to hang out with us. So, again, you see, it really is a small world.
They were planning on getting up to Rio Dulce town, where we happened to be heading, so of course, being the seafaring gentlemen that we are(what, what?), we offered them a ride up the river on Andiamo.
So off we went upriver, which was by no doubt one of the most amazing boat rides I’ve ever taken, and there wasn’t even any sailing involved! The river winds through these amazing vertical gorges of rock that tower as much as 200-300 feet over your head. Absolutely stunning scenery everywhere. There is lush, colorful vegetation, exotic birds and wildlife everywhere. The friendly locals happen by on cayucos (boats that they carve out of hollowed out trees) up and down this river just as they have for centuries.
The ride up the river to town took about 2 odd hours. Andiamo is now docked at a cozy marina on the bank of the river. She’ll be there for the next couple of weeks while we knock out some inland travel and take a little break before heading out to the Bay Islands. It’s nice to have some facilities and conveniences again for awhile. With my new found unlimited internet connection courtesy of the marina, I’ll be able to get really caught up on photos and emails. So that’s next on the agenda, after I get my posting about Pop’s life updated.
A little natural beauty can lighten even the darkest times, if you let it.